It’s time to upgrade that aging Mac Plus to something spiffier. You make a trip down to your friendly local dealer, only to come back depressed by the cost of being up to date. It occurs to you that perhaps you should check out the used computer market to get more bang for your buck. Well, there are bargains to be had out there, but only a savvy shopper can negotiate the pitfalls and come out with a good deal.
The first thing you should do is decide what kind of machine you want. If you want the latest and greatest model it will be in short supply and you will not get much of a price break. Try for a model that has the power you want, but has been on the market for a year or more. A top-of-the-line machine will tend to hold its value much better than one a little older. Quadras, this year’s fastest models, can’t be found in the ad pages, but the Mac IIfx, last year’s fastest machine, is not too hard to find. Right after the Quadras were introduced, there were many IIfx’s on the market as the speed freaks sold off their older machines to upgrade to the latest and greatest.
Once you have determined which model to buy, decide what kind of other goodies you want. Do you want a color monitor? Extended keyboard? Big hard drive? Laser printer? Make a list of your dream system, but be prepared to compromise. The more specific you get about what goodies are included, the less likely you are to find a system that matches exactly. You may want to buy the computer itself on the used market, and then get the monitor you really want from a dealer.
Once you have your list, go to your dealer and get prices. For comparison’s sake you need to know what these things cost new. Buy a copy of the Recycler (a want ad and used merchandise re-sale paper available at convenience stores), or a local newspaper. Read the computer ads carefully to get an idea of what similar systems are going for. By this time you should have a good idea of what you want and what you want to pay.
The traditional approach is to go out and look at each system. This has some advantages — you can compare the relative merits of each system — but I use another way. I determine what an excellent bargain price for the system that I want would be and I run an ad in the Recycler that looks something like this:
WILL PAY $1200 IMMEDIATE CASH FOR MACINTOSH II. CALL XXX-XXXX.
Often this will snag the seller who is checking the paper to see what he should ask for his machine. He sees your ad and decides to take the money and run. You get a great price and he doesn’t have to spend his nights answering phone calls about a computer for sale.
How to check out a machine
The nice thing about checking out computers is that, if they run now, they probably will continue to run. Start the machine and mouse around a little. Duplicate a couple of files, open and close a few windows. The files should duplicate without errors. The mouse should not be jumpy or sticky. Open the Key Caps DA and check that all the keys work. Listen for odd noises. You should hear the low whine of the fan and an occasional noise from the hard drive as it works.
Les Mannos of Manco Industries, a dealer in Burbank, CA, gives these tips for checking out a machine. Format a floppy disk in both regular and high density formats. Copy files back and forth. If possible, check to see if the disks can be read on another machine. The monitor’s picture should be clean and steady, no shimmering or wavering. Look closely and see if an image is burned into the screen. If you use a screen saver it will get no worse, but you may find it annoying.
Always test the equipment. Print something on the printer, scan something on the scanner, etc. Never buy anything that you haven’t seen working.
Configuration
You can tell how much RAM a computer has by selecting “About the Finder” or “About This Macintosh” under the Apple menu. The size of the hard drive can be determined by opening its main window, selecting “View by Icon” and looking across the top of the window. Always check these things yourself. Inexperienced users often don’t know what these things mean and can give you incorrect information.
Machine type
You should be very sure of how to identify the model of computer that you are buying. The identifying information is on plates on the back. A little confusion goes a long way in this area. A good example is the SE/30. This machine is a compact Mac, has a 68030 processor and can support an external color monitor. Its predecessor, the SE, has a 68000 processor. It runs at roughly one-quarter the speed and does not support color. A Mac SE with a 20 MB hard drive is often advertised as an “SE/20,” leading the unwary to believe that they are getting something just a little under an SE/30.
Overpriced machines
Beware the overpriced machine — there are many of them. A Mac Plus bought several years ago may have cost $2,000 or more. Its owner adds another $1,500 in software (not hard to do) and other doo-dads, such as an ImageWriter printer, external disk drive and a 1200 baud modem. His total investment comes to $4,500 and he believes that a price of $2,500 is a great deal. The fact is that a new Mac Classic II (twice as fast as a Plus) with a hard drive costs around $1295 — and has a one year warranty. You may not need the external disk drive or the ImageWriter. A 300 dpi ink jet printer, such as the HP DeskWriter, goes for about $395. The 1200 baud modem was fast a few years ago, but now 2400 baud modems cost under $100. Beware the seller who is trying to recover his investment.
A word about software
Should you pay for those stacks of software alongside the machine? The answer is usually no. You probably already own a set of programs that you know and like. If you don’t sell your programs with your old machine, you can just install them on your new computer. In order for software that has been purchased used to be legally yours, the seller must write a letter stating that he has sold the software to you. You can send this letter to the software company and they will remove his name from the list of registered users and add yours. This will make you the legal owner of the software and make you eligible for future updates. If the program is expensive, it is wise to call the company and ask them exactly what they require to transfer software from one owner to another. If the owner never sent in the registration card, things are easy. All you must do is fill in your name and mail it in.
Software vendors generally allow the use of programs on only one machine at a time. This even includes older versions of the same program. If the seller upgraded Word 3 to Word 4, you cannot buy Word 3 while he keeps Word 4. The company will only allow one of you to be registered. If you buy a machine without getting the software registered in your name, you will be out in the cold as far as updates and documentation are concerned, and you will be violating copyright laws as well.
Also be aware that most used software is an older version. If you want the latest version, get the upgrade price from the company as well. Some upgrades aren’t cheap.
The strongest argument against buying used software is that it may not suit your needs. A $500 collection of kids’ games and educational software isn’t worth anything if you don’t have a child. What is a $700 font collection worth if you think that Geneva and Times are all anyone would ever need? Absolutely nothing. Choose the software that you want and find the best price that you can for a copy of it new. If some software that you can make use of is included in the package, ask these questions of the seller:
• Will you turn over all disks and manuals, and write a letter stating that the software has been sold to me?
• What version do you have? (Check the upgrade price for that version with the company.)
Make your decision based on the seller’s answers, and don’t pay for software that you won’t use.
What about crooks?
I hate to mention it, but if someone says a computer is “hot,” it may not mean that it runs really, really fast. From Detective Cheryl Skinner of the Burbank, CA Police Department, Meda Wardrobe of the Glendale, CA Police Department, and Dave Weisner, retired Los Angeles PD officer, here are some tips to avoid trouble, unfortunate incidents and stolen goods.
• When someone calls about a machine, always get a phone number and call him/her back. This way you have a way to trace the person’s actual location. Some thieves have called about ads, pumped the person for information on the equipment for sale and then dropped by when the person was not home for an extra-special bargain. If you are loose with your information you may also say things like, “No, you can’t come see it tonight, we’re going out to a movie.”
• If you use the “Immediate Cash” trick, do the same thing. Get the number and call them back. You can often get the person to come to your house, but if you are going to his place this may avoid your being lured to some dummy location to be deprived of your cash more immediately than you might have planned. Also, have a friend with you — as you would with any transaction involving a lot of cash.
• Check the serial numbers, model numbers and logos to see if they look okay. If any of these have been removed or altered in any manner, keep away.
• Ask to see the driver’s license of the seller and write down the information. If the equipment is stolen this will give the police something to work with. A criminal may be reluctant to give identification or may offer some reason why he does not have any. Do not buy unless you get some good ID.
• Get the original receipt for the merchandise if available. If it is not, get a written receipt from the seller stating what equipment was sold, to whom, by whom and for how much. Get it dated and signed.
• If you use a dealer, use someone that has been recommended to you or has a good reputation.
• Don’t buy anything at a street corner. None of this “Hey Joe, I got a deal for you. It just fell off a truck.” Use your gut feelings in talking to people who are selling privately. Don’t meet anyone at an unusual location, away from a business or residence. Be careful of swap meets.
• Don’t give out personal information such as your address, etc., to the seller. If he is dishonest he may use this to rob the stuff right back.
• You can call many local police departments and they will run the serial number for you. But if you are suspicious the best thing to do is back away from the deal. Most people in this world are not crooks, but the crooks are out there, so don’t make things easy for them. Trust your instincts. Remember, there ain’t no such thing as a free lunch.
A final word to the wise
Computers get better, faster and cheaper all the time. The best argument against buying used equipment is the speed at which technology changes and prices drop. When considering used equipment look carefully at what is available new. Often your best choice is to go for the comfort and security of a new machine with a one-year warranty. For the intrepid bargain hunter, there may be a great deal out there waiting just for you… but you have to stalk it armed with the best weapons — caution and knowledge.
Newsletter editors: The following note is for your information only; it is unnecessary to reproduce it with this article
This article may be reproduced and/or published by any non-profit organization as long as authorship and copyright credits are retained. Please send one copy on the newsletter in which it appears to:
